These images were taken in August 2019 before and during the daily border closing ceremony at the Wagah-Attari Border Post between India and Pakistan. During our observation from the Indian side of the border, we learned that the ceremony represents the history of conflict between the two countries which sparked from the 1947 partition by the British Raj into ‘Muslim’ Pakistan and ‘Hindu’ India. The partition is often blamed on the divisive policies of colonial British India, which sought to divide a region that had historically coexisted. The partition led to the migration of over 15 million people and deaths between one and two million from both sides. According to a 2015 article by William Dalrymple in the New Yorker, the mass migration and subsequent mutual genocide and humanitarian crisis left a deep divide between the two countries that continue until today. 

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The ceremony is known for the flamboyant uniforms and high kicks of the border guards on both sides. What struck me was how routinized the entire event was. As a daily occurrence, the ceremony has turned into a tourist event with face painting, music, and snack vendors. The mirroring ceremonies maintain a balance of outdoing each other while coordinating their timing and maneuvers to be in synchronicity. For example, when the Indian side began playing music, the Pakistani side immediately began playing music louder. What was noticeable about this interaction was that both sides began playing their music at low volumes, so they could increase the competition and intensity throughout the event. 

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Over the years, the relationship between the two countries has fluctuated; with the two states at times existing in relative peace, and other times on the brink of war. In such an uncertain environment, one thing is certain: the border ceremony will occur around 4:30 every day. Among the crowds on both sides flaunting symbols of nationalism, the fact that not long ago these two nations shared the same space and culture bears loudly over the event. I left the ceremony that day with the implications and legacy of division on my mind. 

 

To learn more about the partition conflict please visit this link. If you are interested in seeing the ceremony in person, please visit the US State Department website here to get the latest travel alerts on the safety conditions of the region.